Chapter 16 Advanced Customization
Sitting on the round corduroy sofa in the middle of the second floor, looking at the staff coming and going in the exhibition room, and looking at the smiling Han Yi beside him, Xiao Ru was a little dazed.

Advanced customization...what's the situation?
Xu Yiru is no stranger to luxury goods. In fact, she used the first luxury item in her life before she turned one year old.

Cabriolet baby pajama set from Hermès.

One of the many gadgets to stock mom's Kelly bags.

The family is well-off, and he also intends to be well-raised since he was a child.Xu Yiru spent her middle school years at Nantou Private Putai Senior High School, one of the most well-known private Buddhist schools in Baodao. The founder of the school is the Great Monk Weijue from Yingchuan County, Shuchuan Province. The sangha education concept of "teaching, merit, and meditation" is the core spirit of Nantou Private Putai Senior High School.Therefore, in the school, it is strictly forbidden to have any objects that will cause students to have comparisons and material desires.

But even so, the family has prepared innumerable luxuries for Xu Yiru in invisible places.To give the simplest example, even the blackout curtains on her bed are made of elegant cashmere.

The Xu family's parents hope that by providing all-round affluent conditions, Xu Yiru can obtain sufficient material satisfaction early, so that she will not do any dishonorable and stupid things because of her pursuit of a luxurious life when she becomes an adult.

This is the vast majority of rich families who have daughters, and they have a very consistent concept of nurturing.

Which kid wanted to buy two luxury items and got my daughter, that's really a fantasy.

The painstaking efforts of her parents were not in vain, Xu Yiru has grown up to now, without any worries about material things, and she has naturally transformed into a lady of the big family who doesn't like things.

At the University of Southern California, countless rich and wealthy families wanted to impress her with money, but Xu Yiru didn't even give her excuses, and refused all the gifts presented to her.After all, how much real discretionary wealth can even a trust fund baby studying at USC have?The things I bought were nothing more than Hermès bags, Manolo Blahnik shoes, and Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces.

There are wardrobes as small as one, do I need to accept yours?

Even when she saw Han Yi's Ferrari two days ago, Xu Yiru was not moved in the slightest. She was surprised only by her best friend's sudden wealth.

But now, even Xu Yiru, whose heart is as still as water, couldn't help but feel a wave of turmoil.

It’s not that Xu Yiru has never bought haute couture items. In 2013, her mother who celebrated her 18-year-old adult ceremony bought her a black sleeveless 6000 autumn and winter haute couture series worth 2013 euros at Dior on Avenue Montaigne in Paris. coat.

But that is the finished product hanging in the store after the release of the high-end series.At the end of the day, it’s no different than a real ready-to-wear collection.

Now, serving her is the director of Chanel's bespoke service department, the undisputed powerhouse in the haute couture world, and the pride of the Danish fashion world, Sigrid Dilepon.

"Yi Yi, this is too exaggerated." Taking a peek at Sigrid Di Lepon who was picking out templates in front of the fitting rack, Xu Yiru touched the back of Han Yi's hand with her fingertips and whispered, "This is Just stroll around? Isn’t this a trial in three courts?”

"I don't know it's this battle." Han Yi took a sip of the Coke with ice and lemon, and shook his head, "I want to pick a gift for you, and I called Olivia for advice. She mentioned it to me. This matter, I think it is very good, let her settle down."

"Oh my God." Xu Yiru bit her lower lip, seeing the situation, she ordered at least one piece, as she was embarrassed to leave today.

Xiao Ru quietly picked up her mobile phone, opened Scottrade, and prepared to withdraw some cash.

"What are you doing?" Han Yi keenly recognized the logo of the stock trading software. He pressed Xu Yiru's hand, his eyes widened, "I'll treat you well."

"Very expensive." Xu Yiru responded weakly.

"How expensive can it be?"

"I don't know anything else, but that one, at least one hundred thousand dollars."

Xu Yiru signaled Han Yi with his eyes, and looked at the set of concept dresses placed against the wall at the end of the temporary exhibition room, which consisted of a white tulle cape with gold trim and a champagne gold long skirt.The complex weaving process, the gorgeous and complicated patterns, the extremely expensive silk and tassel texture, and the irregular sequins that are obviously hand-stitched, all vividly show that it will never be less than [-] working hours. Grinding time.

As a male, Han Yi doesn't know the concept of advanced customization, but Xu Yiru is no stranger to it.

French Haute Couture, literally translated, is the meaning of advanced custom clothing.Although this concept originated in Paris and has always been known as the treasure of French contemporary culture, in fact, the first to introduce the concept of bespoke fashion to the fashion world was the couturier from England, Charles Frederick - Voss.

In 1858, Voss founded the first haute couture studio in Paris, specializing in providing clothing services for the upper class in the European continent. The term "fashion designer" was invented by Voss, which gave an artistic halo to the simple and unpretentious clothing manufacturing industry.

In 1868, after ten years of barbaric growth, the haute couture houses blooming everywhere in Paris united to establish the French Haute Couture Guild to set a unified standard for the haute couture industry. In 1921, the Fashion Protection Association was established to protect the clothing art created by haute couture for the top crowd from plagiarism.After each custom-made fashion is released, it will be registered by the model to wear it and take photos to leave a record of copyright protection.

After the Second World War, the high-end fashion industry flourished, and today it has become one of France's most powerful cultural exports to the world.Located in Paris, the French Haute Couture Association firmly controls the definition of high fashion.The association stipulates that any fashion brand can customize ready-to-wear for customers, that is, "Couture", but if a brand's customized clothing line wants to be recognized as "Haute Couture", it must meet the following three conditions at the same time:
1. The design must be exclusively customized for private customers, and the number of fittings must be more than one.

2. There must be an Atelier in Paris that employs at least fifteen full-time employees, that is, a handicraft studio.

3. In spring, summer and autumn and winter, at least 35 pieces of custom-made fashion must be presented to the Paris media, including day and evening wear.

Due to strict conditions, there are countless luxury brands around the world like gravel, but only [-] of them have been given the title of Grand Couturiers, that is, the title of Grand Fashion Designer, and can officially use the title of Haute Couture.Including French local brands Chanel, Christian Dior, Alexandre Votier, Margiela, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier, as well as exotic brands with studios in Paris, such as Giambattis from Italy Ta Valli and Elsa Schiaparelli.

In addition to the sixteen official members, the French Haute Couture Association will also invite clothing brands they think have potential to become guest members.If guest members are invited to participate in French Haute Couture Fashion Week for four consecutive fashion seasons, they will have the opportunity to be promoted to full members.For example, the Lebanese brand Zuhai-Mura, which has become popular around the world in recent years, is working hard to obtain the status of a full member.

Guest members cannot use the logo of Haute Couture, they can only call themselves Couture, and no one dares to modify it at will.Whoever acts presumptuously will only become the laughing stock of the entire fashion industry.

With the advent of the era of globalization, in order to further expand its influence, the association has also absorbed eight brands that have high-end fashion studios outside Paris, including Alea from Tunisia in North Africa and Eli Saab from Lebanon. , as well as Italian Valentino, Armani, Fendi and Versace, as international members of the association, also known as corresponding members or associate members.

But in the final analysis, in the exclusive French fashion world, these brands are difficult to get real recognition.You know, the guild's eyes are higher than the top not only for foreign brands. In 2013, Givenchy was kicked out of the official membership team because he failed to meet the review standards, which caused an uproar.

Dior is one, Balmain is one, and Chanel is one of the brands that can really sit firmly in the high-end market for decades.

Among them, Chanel is the well-deserved number one player.

In order to maintain its status as the leader of the high-definition industry, at the beginning of the century, Chanel successively bought embroidery master Le Sage, feather expert Le Marie, top shoemaker Massaro, goldsmith Gussens, custom jewelry brand Dilu, and millinery manufacturing. Seven of the most respected handicraft studios in Paris, including the Maison Michel and the cloth flower supplier Jier, guarantee the unrepeatability of Chanel's high-end series.

Almost every season, Chanel can exhibit more than one hundred pieces of custom-made fashion at Haute Couture Fashion Week, which is an astronomical figure that is difficult for other brands to match in the Haute Couture fashion industry.You must know that despite its reputation, it is extremely difficult to expand the customer base of advanced customization services. Even in the tenth year of the 21st century, there are only 4000 consumers in the world who can really buy high-end products frequently.

These 4000 people are like the aristocrats who served musicians in the palace and private mansions during the Romantic period, using their unfathomable wealth accumulation to provide nutrients for the most cutting-edge fashion art in the new century.

However, having said that, there are not only 4000 people in this world who have the ability to buy high-end fashion.Some wealthy people are not interested in advanced customization, and they rely more on the private tailors they have cooperated with for many years.And another part of the rich has passed the stage of dressing themselves up with such things.

If you're Warren Buffett and drinking Cherry Coke can become a fashion everyone else is trying to emulate, why do you need to wear custom clothes on yourself?
Everything about you is unique.

But Xu Yiru, who only bought one coat, is not a member of the 4000 people, let alone Warren Buffett.Even though her family is well-off, she is still far away from this class.

But today, Chanel, the eternal overlord of the haute couture fashion industry, even sent the director of their custom fashion department to tailor clothes for Xu Yiru, who shouldn't be here.

"One hundred thousand." Han Yi tilted his head, "Then just buy four pieces."

"It's really a lot of karma, you... By the way, why are they in Los Angeles?" Xu Yiru glanced at her best friend helplessly, and instead of answering his questions, she raised the question that has been hidden in her heart. Chanel stores are everywhere. , but Chanel's haute couture house will always only be in Paris.

There are 4000 people with purchasing power, and there is no shortage of a private plane to fly to the continent.

"It is said that it is Chanel's haute couture tour exhibition every three to five years. Olivia said so." Han Yi recalled, and replied, "After Chanel finished the haute couture fashion week in Paris at the end of January, it will start First in London, then in New York, and then during Oscar week, in Los Angeles to try on the stars."

"After this is over, they will go to Asia. Magic City, Imperial Capital, and then Tokyo." Han Yi pointed to Di Lepon who was walking towards them, "If I remember correctly, you are her second last in Los Angeles customers."

"Ms. Dilepon, nice to meet you."

Although she was a little nervous, Xu Yiru's performance was unrestrained and generous. She stood up and extended her hand gracefully to Sigrid Di Lepon.

"Hi, Ms. Xu." Sigrid Di Lepon looked at Xu Yiru's outfit and joked, "It looks like we have to convince you to like Chanel."

"It's up to you to let her come in wearing Dior and go out wearing Chanel." Han Yi also nodded slightly and said with a smile.No matter how big a figure she is in the fashion industry, as long as she doesn't know her, there will be no psychological pressure, "At least that's what I hope."

"Then let's start." Sigrid nodded with a smile, took a colored booklet from the assistant, and opened it to Xu Yiru and Han Yi.She doesn't need to introduce herself, because every time she arrives in a city, the customers who want to be served by her will do their homework in advance.

"This is Chanel's 2016 spring haute couture inspiration manual. You can choose existing styles and let us modify them. We will also make autumn and winter customized styles for customers."

Some high-end brands will adjust the existing designs for customers, some brands are only willing to sell suits and never modify them, and some brands do not even sell finished products, but only customize.

The world-class brand Chanel is naturally the first one. The bigger the brand, the stronger the financial resources, the less rules there are.

Sigrid handed the manual to Han Yi, clapped her hands, and said.

"The two of you can browse the manual first, and our fitting models will also show the upper body effect of the shape in real time."

Showroom model, another privilege for the top class.

The fashion week supermodels that ordinary people can only see on TV are just supporting roles for the Beverly rich when they choose clothes.

Of course, a real world-class supermodel will not take the job of a private showroom. No matter how rich Chanel is, it is impossible to spend tens of thousands of dollars an hour to let Laura Stone or Karlie Kloss help set a high-end fashion show. Customer fitting.

But even so, the ostentation of this show is still luxurious.

The second floor of Chanel's flagship store on Rodeo Drive originally displayed ready-to-wear collections, purses and some shoes.The high-end fashion department requisitioned the place a week before the Oscars, emptied all exhibits, and turned the nearly [-]-square-foot space into a royal-standard showroom.

The remodel alone cost nearly $30.Fortunately, last December, Chanel bought the property rights of this flagship store at a price of [-] US dollars per square foot, and all the renovations will not be cheap for others.

Eight fitting models came out of the dressing room, lined up on both sides of Sigrid, and faced Xu Yiru and Han Yi directly.

Of course, such a big battle was not just for Xu Yiru alone.Chanel signed a two-week fitting model contract with the Los Angeles branch of the elite modeling agency, mainly to serve Hollywood stars attending the Oscars.

On the red carpet of the just-concluded 88th awards ceremony, last year's best actress award winner Julianne Moore, "Star Wars: The Force Awakens" heroine Daisy Ridley and Turkish female director, best foreign language The female director Deniz Gamze Ercuven, who was nominated for the film "Mustang", all appeared in Chanel's custom dresses.

After the Oscar Awards Ceremony on February 2, the Haute Couture Department will stay in Los Angeles for another week before departing across the Pacific Ocean to Asia.Today was their last day of work in Los Angeles, and Xu Yiru happened to be in the spotlight.

"This is the first time for you two to participate in... similar activities, right?"

Looking at the two youthful faces, Sigrid asked softly.

"Yes."

Han Yi nodded very naturally and gave a smile.

It is not ridiculous to have no experience. Life is connected by one brand new experience after another.

It's ridiculous for those who have not experienced it, but want to pretend to be an expert in front of professionals, and gain a sense of identity and security in this way.

"It's okay. Over the past five years, we have seen more and more new customers in North America, but also in Asia. We welcome you to join us and are very happy to communicate with fresh hearts, which can also help us more Well done to our work."

Sigrid's response was very friendly and artistic.

And translated in a language that humans can understand, we talk to whoever has money.

"The two of you are presented with the 2016 spring/summer collection just shown at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Models No. [-] to No. [-]." Sigrid stood beside model No. [-] and introduced, "Our models are between size zero and size two. I believe that Ms. Xu should be in this range. Please let us know which outfit you like. We will help you with a personal fitting and change the tailoring according to your body shape. Clothing material and even part of the design.”

Hearing Sigrid's question, Xu Yiru didn't speak immediately, she turned her head and turned her questioning gaze to Han Yi.

Xu Yiru is ready to use her small investment treasury to buy one of the outfits, after all such an opportunity doesn't come across all the time.

In the range that Han Yi likes, choose a set with a reasonable price.

For some reason, Xu Yiru wanted to know Han Yi's preference.

"I think..." Han Yi leaned over and pointed to the long skirt suit that was quietly leaning against the wall behind the models No. [-] and No. [-], which was exactly the one that Xu Yiru saw at first glance, "That suit How about it?"

"Very good vision." Sigrid nodded with a smile, "This is the 58th look of this year, which was exhibited for the first time by our glamorous Ms. Gigi Hadid at Fashion Week. I couldn't invite you today. Seeing her doesn't mean the look is any less."

"Ms. Xu can try it."

"It's too expensive!" Xiaoru wailed to Han Yi in Chinese.

"Try it without losing a piece of meat." Han Yi gave an encouraging look, "Go, I think it will be very suitable for you!"

Her best friend strongly encouraged her, and Xu Yiru was already very impressed with this outfit, so she finally stood up, surrounded by Petites Mains, and walked towards the fitting room.For this touring exhibition, Sigrid took four Petites Mains to travel together, and the rest stayed in the studio in Paris to complete the clothing booked in the Haute Couture Week.

In French, the word is very straightforward, meaning "little helpers", they are garment artisans with superb manual skills to help designers actually complete the finished garments.An evening dress with extremely complicated design and craftsmanship sometimes even requires fifty "little helpers" to work at the same time, accumulating a thousand man-hours to complete.

By comparison, even the best tailor-made men's suits on Savile Row require no more than ninety hours of work.

This is a man's world, but men belong to women.

Very wise quote.

Unlike ordinary ready-to-wear, haute couture is not intended for personal wear.Different clothes have different ways of wearing, and it takes a lot of effort to get them neatly dressed with the assistance of two or three assistants.

After 15 minutes, Xu Yiru, who was dressed in a platinum dress, stepped into the exhibition hall gracefully.

Han Yi could hear the exclamation of the female staff covering their chests, the slightly heavy breathing of the male staff, Sigrid Dillerpon's contented chuckle, and one of the "little helpers" whispering like a dream .

"Madame de l'Epine, we don't need a single clip... This dress was designed for her."

"You should know, Ms. Xu, Europe has a long history of romantic imagination of China. There is a word in French called Chinoiserie, which means Chinese style. In the eighteenth century, or earlier, we began to fanatically imitate everything related to China. stuff. Decorative arts, garden design, architecture, literature, theatre, music, and, of course, clothing.”

Sigrid Di Lepon circled around Xu Yiru slowly.

"If you have seen the works of Francois Boucher, you will know how obsessed we Europeans were with Chinese culture. Every European woman wants to be the princess of that ideal country, with silk and gold embellishments, Obtained the favor of the entire royal family...Mariano Fortuny, Jean-Pierre Paquin, Carlotte Soules, generations of French designers have been loved by Chinoiserie long before high fashion. The most interesting thing is, do you know? The United States at the beginning of the [-]th century, who clamored to drive out the Chinese people, was crazily imitating the dressing style of the Chinese people.”

Seemingly aware that this topic was not particularly appropriate to unfold in Los Angeles, Sigrid changed the subject without leaving a trace.

"Europeans like the princess of Huaguo and want to see the princess of Huaguo. No matter where the liar comes from, if he puts on the coat of a royal princess, he will always be treated and welcomed in Europe. I am also such a person, Ms. Xu."

"I have served many Asian clients, noble, wealthy, and beautiful Asian clients, but I have never seen a real Huaguo princess. A woman who is really from there and can represent Asian aesthetic culture."

"Today, I saw you."

As a fashion designer, Sigrid Di Lepon not only needs to draw drawings, but also needs to explain her aesthetic concepts inside and outside the group, and introduce people into her haute couture world with beautiful and profound words.

The eloquence cultivated for decades allowed her to express the inner thoughts of everyone present in a subtle but precise way.

Chinese princess.

The spotlight shone on Xu Yi's suet-like white jade shoulders, causing golden ripples.

She has a slender and delicate figure, and she is the flying swallow in the palm and the slave of the sky in Liu Yong's poems.

For the current mainstream aesthetics in Europe and America, Xu Yiru is a bit thin, but in the field of high fashion, this is the most perfect demeanor.

An extremely Chinese beauty, dressed in the most western clothes.

The aesthetic standards of different cultures meet and collide in this exhibition room, and finally merge perfectly.

"She's really pretty." Olivia praised softly. When Han Yi called her, he specifically mentioned that he was picking a gift for a "friend". Therefore, in Olivia's compliment, he deliberately avoided any ambiguous title.

But Sigrid Di Lepon didn't know that.

"Your wife couldn't be more perfect." Sigrid turned her head to look at Han Yi, and smiled, "Isn't it, Mr. Han?"

"She's not my wife."

"Then what are you waiting for?"

Obviously, Sigrid once again misunderstood the relationship between the two.

It's not her fault, who would buy haute couture for ordinary friends?

This time, Han Yi did not answer Sigrid's words.Maybe he didn't hear it, maybe he did it on purpose, but he just watched Xu Yiru quietly, deliberately trying to experience that special emotion.

This is a trial.

Xu Yiru listened to the conversation between Han Yi and Sigrid with a smile at the beginning, without words or fluctuations.

It's just a common misunderstanding.

But Han Yi's long silence finally made the girl's expression change.

The warm and formulaic smile disappeared, and Xu Yi, like an indestructible rock in his eyes, gradually began to loosen.

"Does it look good?"

She walked up to Han Yi and asked softly.

(End of this chapter)

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